The Gear

So now we are back in Christchurch and reality. We had an awesome trip but are not really that sad its all over as that means we can plan our next adventure! We have a non recreational goal and another walk to plan over the next few years so we will be kept very busy.

Some people have asked us about our gear so we thought we would describe here what we took with us. It made so much difference for our enjoyment to take light weight gear and be really ruthless about what we really actually needed.

- Ultralite Adventure Equipment circuit 60 litre http://www.ula-equipment.com/ (Johno)
- Golite Pinnacle 60 litre http://www.golite.com/ (Corrine)
- Western Mountaineering Ultralite Sleeping bags http://www.westernmountaineering.com/
- Black Diamond Beta Mid Tarp and Inner http://www.backcountry.com/

These were all purchased online from the USA although you can buy Golite packs in New Zealand now as well. We originally had just the tarp which we use for tramping in summer in NZ but decided due to the unpredictable weather in Spring when there can be a lot of rain perhaps a floor would be a good idea so we bought the inner of the tarp to go with it. We are very glad we did this!! We also thought it would keep a lot of sandflies from deciding to share the tent with us (although somehow some still made their way in)!

Our sleeping bags proved a little hot in summer but we didn't want to purchase another 'summer' one and already had these but they are great as they open up into a duvet so work well and are great for the NZ winter.

Misc
- Leki ultralite walking poles (double up as tent poles in the middle of the tent, great for the love life for 5 months!!)
- Foam sleeping pads (you walk long enough, you sleep on anything)
- Locater Beacon - definitely recommended for this trail, there was a 9 day stretch through the Richmond Ranges where we saw 1 other person.
- Garmin etreck Legend GPS - definitely recommended for this trail, although won't be needed so much once the trail is all marked but still a good idea as that bad weather creeps in fast and if you can't see on the mountain tops this is needed.
- Ipod Shuffle - for when we get bored of listening and talking to each other!

Kitchen
- Pepsi can stove - just google how to make one, we have used the same one for 3 years now.
-MSR pot (already had this and refused to pay $300 for a titanium one for a few grammes in weight
- Coca Cola bottle for fuel (meths)
- Sea to Summit Titanium Sporks (we bought these after our other plastic ones broke)

Clothes - we both took the same, apart from Corrine took an extra polypro top as feels the cold more than Johno
- 1 x pair polypro longjohns
- 1 x polypro long sleeve top
- 1 x Icebreaker long sleeve top (posted back home in January when it got warmer)
- 1 x short sleeve cool mesh running top (great to rinse out at night and be dry the next morning)
- 1 x running shorts
- 1 x polartec fleece
- 2 x socks (although we both wore the same ones every day and kept the other pair for wearing at night in the tent as our feet were wet every day)
- 1 x beanie (hat)
- 1 x boxers (Johno), 2 x undies (Cos)

Rain Gear
- Mountain Hardwear gortex paclite Jacket
- Mountain Hardwear conduit rain pants

Misc
- Short Gaiters (Johno OR brand, Corrine Sea to Summit)
- Montrail Hard Rock Trail running shoes (2 pairs each) although the second pair is with us in Christchurch and has heaps more wearing still to go.
- Petzl Tikka Headtorch (Corrine)
- Solar Light Cap (Johno) http://www.solarlightcap.com/

We wore our rain pants heaps more than we thought we would, not only in rain but as a great protection from the wind. We also ended up wearing them around town when we got in to resupply for food as they looked like normal pants; Corrine even managed to roll them up to look like 3/4 length pants. We didnt take any spare 'going out' clothes and wore our rain gear whilst waiting for our clothes to wash and dry.

With regards to trail running shoes versus boots; we are used to wearing these and do quite a bit of off road running so are used to uneven terrain, our packs are also fairly light so we had no ankle issues. We have tramped in trail runners for the last few summers and decided these were best for us as they pump out the water from the rivers and dry quickly and your feet are a lot lighter in them. We are not saying these are good for everyone. If anyone is interested in light weight tramping then have a look at http://www.rayjardine.com/

The solar light cap was given to us to trial and was great. We only carried the headtorch as a backup really and apart from using it in the tent to read we hardly used it at all. The solar light cap had power every day even when the weather was dull. Go buy one!

Our base weight of the above was about 5-6kg then food and water added on top obviously. If anyone would like to contact us for any information, they can on corrine.early@gmail.com

If you enjoyed the trail please support the Te Araroa Trust by giving a donation.

Happy Tramping everyone

Queenstown to Bluff (The End)

Queenstown-Glenorchy-Greenstone track-Mavora Walkway-Mavora Lakes-Te Anau (resupply only)-Takatimu Forest-private station-Otautau-Private forestry roads-Longwood Forest-Colac Bay-Riverton-Oreti Beach-Invercargill-Foveaux Walkway-Bluff

The final section is here!!!

It all started with a 46km (yes that's right 46km) road walk from Queenstown to Glenorchy (nice!) - our longest day yet. We got a water taxi from Glenorchy across Lake Wakatipu to the start of the Greenstone/Caples track (36km road walk around without water taxi, and not part of the trail); I think 46km the day before was enough. Greenstone track is like a highway and the most people we have seen on a track in a long time, very nice and through Beech Forest then onto open tussock. From here we picked up the Mavora Walkway and out to the Mavora Lakes where we met a very nice couple Rob and Debbie, who invited us into their lovely camperhome for a glass of wine - how civilised!! It was then a backcountry road walk out from the lake to the road end where we hitched to Te Anau to resupply food before continuing on into the Takatimu Forest.


The forest was lovely and cool for such a hot day and we had a lovely walk along the Waterloo Burn to the Aparima Huts we then had an easy couple of hours walk along the Aparima river before acessing a private station (permission obtained) out to Ohai. A quick 30km! backcountry road walk to Otautau to resupply again before heading through some forest backcountry roads to access the Longwood Forest, absolutely massive. The Longwood Forest track is a disused water race that has been re-opened from the early 1800's where the Chinese first dug it (by hand) for gold sleucing. There is old gold mining equipment tucked away in various parts of the forest as well as tunnells dug deep into the trees. This track runs for 20km and takes 8 hours to walk it is so windy. From there it was down to Colac Bay where we walked along the beach and above the cliffs to Mores Hill Reserve before dropping down into Riverton.

From here it was 17km along Oreti Beach, a short road walk into Invercargill and only one day left to go. Our final day unfortunately was a 27km road walk but ended with a 7km walk around the Foveaux Walkway to Sirling Point the Southern Most tip of the South Island - Bluff

Animals seen: Pig, Aparima river flats and Fallow Deer, Mavora tracks


WE MADE IT - 4.5 months, 15 days off North Island, 9 days off South Island

Will give a run down of gear etc soon so keep on viewing.

Thanks to everyone who gave us invaluable information along the way; The Te Araroa Trust, DOC, all the rides we have got (around rivers or to resupply), the food and beds we have been given along the way and to YHA for giving Johno the time off!!

meanwhile a little poem for you all



From Cape Reinga to Bluff, it took just four and half months
Three thousand kilometres we walked; it was just long enough

North to South, New Zealand we went
We walked and walked and put up our tent

Through many towns that linked all the tracks
We bought more food and stuffed it in our packs

Over valleys and mountains, forest and farms
Sea and backcountry roads were never too far
Many rivers we crossed, some were too big
For these we went round; yes we got a lift
Safety first is the number one rule
Second of all, to get through it all

Sometimes remote, just us, deer, thar and goats
A map and a compass is needed the most
A GPS is good to go, just to back up what you hopefully know

People ask us "Are you still talking?"
We just laugh and keep on walking
Lifes real simple, you will see
All you have to do is walk from A to B

The trail is great, so diverse in its length
Just walk it, you will see what I meant
You can do it in sections, you don't have to do it all
The notes are easy to follow, you'll have a ball

Thanks to the Te Araroa Trust for the trails creation
If you feel inspired, just go the net and please don't forget to make a donation.


NOW......... WHATS NEXT??????? Pacific Crest Trail!!

Wanaka to Queenstown

Wanaka Millennium Track - Motatapu Track - Macetown-Arrowtown-Queenstown


Awesome walk along the new Millennium track in Wanaka that has now been extended out to Glendu Bay and goes right around the lakeside. Stopped at the Glendu Bay caravan park for more Fruju's (Ice pops) then headed up onto the dusty road to the start of the Motatapu track. A lovely bush walk alongside the Fern Burn Creek then headed up to the Fern Burn Hut. A relatively easy walk if you weren't carrying 4 days of food and walking in 33 degrees of heat! This track is on Shania Twaine's station and the three identical huts on this track were paid for by her (good work)! The second day of the Motatapu track was listed on the awesome TeAraroa notes as being 'the most challenging' with 3 climbs one after the other of over 1000 metres up and right down again so we decided to wake up at 5.30am (yes that is early for me) to beat the feet before the heat. Being a long 9 hour day that was impossible but at least we got a bit of it out of the way before we were sweating and dying to be down by the river again. By the time we got to the Roses Hut we were ready for food and bed pretty much straight away especially with another early start the following day. We had a lot to get through as Nicks flight out of Queenstown was on 9th Feb so we had to keep moving and they had agreed to meet Simon (the little Tunnell brother) in Arrowtown - Boys!! The following day heading out of Roses Hut to Macetown involved another climb of 1270 metres over the Roses Saddle then dropping down to the Arrow River to Macetown. As the water levels were low we decided to walk in the river all the way to Macetown rather than along the track, lovely and cool afternoon. Saw some old Mining hut ruins and old gold workings along the river en route; unfortunately we didnt find any gold!

For some strange reason from Macetown rather than continuing along the lovely cool Arrow River we decided to take the Big Hill Saddle route over to Arrowtown; this involved another 1000 metre climb but we were rewarded with the most stunning views of the Wakatipu Basin and Lake Hayes - we knew we did these things for a reason.

We met Simon in Arrowtown (the first time all the Tunnell brothers had been together in 4 years) - they wanted to all play camping geeks in the same tent but there was no room in either for all 3 of them - very sad! Nick headed off on the bus the next day for his flight to Auckland to start his new job and Simon took the bus to Queenstown as had another day off work so we were to meet him there later.

A lovely walk into Queenstown through the prestigious MillBrook golf resort then onto various walkways to the old historic Shotover Bridge then past the "lovely" oxidisation ponds to the Frankton Events centre before dropping down to Frankton Domain and picking up the walking trail alongside Lake Wakatipu to Queenstown.

Lake Tekapo - Wanaka - (190km)

First off I have to say we have had the most stunning weather ever the last few weeks with temperatures rarely dropping below 25 degrees and rising to 30 degrees on many days - Summer has arrived at last!! WE LOVE IT

Lake Tekapo - Tekapo/Twizel canal-Lake Pukaki-Pukaki river-Twizel-Lake Ruataniwha-Lake Ohau-Parsons Mountainbike track-Freehold Creek-East Ahuriri river-Mt Martha saddle-Timaru River Creek-Lake Hawea-Wanaka

We left Lake Tekapo for a 28km walk alongside the Tekapo/Twizel Canal before dropping down to the lakeside and continuing our walk around Lake Pukaki with the most amazing views of Mt Cook, not a cloud in the sky. Heading into Twizel along the river, Meridian Energy had opened the floodgates as normally the river bed is dry; it would have been amazing to see it fill up but I think it had been open a while as the water was cranking down there; we must have had a lot of water over the last few weeks. It looked like a hydroslide going down the dam wall, it was great. Apparently they open it up to kayakers once a year to run the rapids as well but there were no kayakers so I think the lake was just full.

We met Nick in Twizel (Johno's brother) and he joined us for the walk into Wanaka. The boys started doing the camping geek thing and comparing stuff almost immediately with Johno deciding that Nick didnt need half the stuff he had bought and sending him to the Post Office to post it back.

Walked out of Twizel on another really hot day to the Lake Ruataniwha wier then along and round the edge of Lake Ohau swimming in both lakes along the way to cool off a bit and camped up a little earlier than normal; we say its because Nick was with us and we need to take it easy on him but in reality the heat is totally zapping our energy now (ssshh dont tell Nick).

After continuing along the edge of Lake Ohau we came out at the Glen Mary skifield and headed up the Parsons Mountainbike track to Freehold Creek then up over the saddle to the East Ahuriri river. From the edge of the beech forest to the East Ahuriri the route is not marked yet so we spent a bit of time navigating our way around the marshy part and the huge bluffs that the awesome Te Araroa notes had mentioned we should avoid if attempting this section whilst unmarked - thanks guys!. After arriving safely over the Ahuriri River we picked up the rest of the trail (fully marked) the other side up and over Mt Martha where we met Parker and Celeste another couple (from the USA) walking Te Araroa South to North which was great to compare notes etc.

The next day and half was spent walking down the Timaru River creek on the newly cut trail (very steep, high and narrow in places), heading high up to avoid the gorge parts of the river then dropping back down to the river bed then up again and then down again for about 10 hours in total but we still had the beautiful weather so it was really nice to be walking in the creek after we had climbed up so high.

We finally popped out of the creek then carried on along the backcountry road to Lake Hawea (more swimming to cool off) then on the new riverside lake track all the way into Wanaka to stay with Jethro and Ella for a few days - thanks to you both we had an awesome few days off!

We now only have about 500km to go which is a bit wierd - it all seemed such a long way a few months ago. Long may the awesome weather continue though.

Arthurs Pass - Lake Tekapo (221km)

Cora Lyn - Lagoon Saddle - Harper River-Lake Coleridge-Turtons Saddle-Clent Hill Saddle-Hakatere Conservation Reserve-Mesopotamia Station -Bullock Bow Saddle-Stag Saddle-Lake Tekapo

First off thanks to Sheena for picking me up from Darfield to go back to Arthurs Pass with all our food and for taking our packs so we could walk the 3 hour connecting road section without them; it made all the difference and it was great to see ya. From Cora Lyn we had a nice walk up to the Lagoon Saddle then along the Harper River to Hamilton Hut and only a bit of drizzle - maybe the summer is coming?? The next day was walking along the Harper River again then down the back country road to Lake Coleridge village. We met the owner of Glenthorne/Ryton station (John) who asked about the trail hopefully he will eventually grant access through the stations as walking 32km along the road is a bit monotenous after a while. Getting across the Rakaia river had been one of our concerns (alongside the Rangitata) for a while, what with so much rain but it proved no problem (we just went round). Got a ride right around to the start of the road the other side of the river by a nice man and his daughter who'd been out biking and kayaking on the lake then got another ride by Mt Hutt Helicopters (the truck not the helicopter, unfortunately). It was waiting at the bottom of the road for the all go from DOC that the 2 toilets for the very huts we were planning to stay in were ready for airlifting in place - awesome; he took us right to the start of the track the other side of the river. Must have been good karma, we found an expensive leatherman on the road the day before and guessed it had been the musterers from Lake Colerige Station who we had passed; we gave it to another station worker to give back, he knew who it belonged to.

Stayed at A Frame hut near the Clent Hills saddle for the night with the new toilet (in place but unfortunately not installed); saw the DOC guys on the way down from the hut, they had installed the other toilet at Comyns Hut and were on there way to the A Frame and shooting a few rabbits en route to us. The huts along this section are old musterers huts and have a lot of history (and mice it seems, the little buggers). This is all new conservation area recently back in DOC hands after tenure review and is great - not sure how they ever grazed it, think the sheep must have eaten scree. We came out of this track at Lake Heron carpark and walked onto more recently new conservation land at Hakatere. We had planned on camping at Lake Clearwater then heading up to Mt Potts station to find out about crossing the Rangitata river; we had heard that possibly you could cross (48 braided channels) up further towards Mt Eriwhon but got chatting to a DOC guy whilst looking at the historic Hakatere station buildings and he said that the river flow was at 200 cumecs and they were only allowed to cross in their 4x4s at 100 cumecs (it wasnt even worth a go). Last week the river was flowing at 800 cumecs, thats how much rain there has been!!!

Alan (DOC guy) gave us a ride around to the bottom of the road the other side of the river on his way home (awesome, thanks) then we only waited 15 minutes of so and got a ride up the road to a campsite at Peel Forest (just 14 km up the other side). We stayed there for the night in a little cabin and waited for the thunder and lightening to pass over, thankfully it did the next day and got a ride with Ian at the Peel Forest shop who also runs the campsite and the rural post service all the way up to Mesopotamia station (some 50km at the end of the Rakaia Gorge Road) and the start of the Te Araroa trail the other side of the Rangitata river. We stayed at the station for the night and congratulated ourselves on getting across the 2 biggest Canterbury rivers without getting wet feet! It anyone is interested Malcolm from Mesopotamia station will take you across the river in his helicopter for a rather hefty fee but you too could have dry feet!

The following day however was a different story, we were supposed to head up from Mesopotamia Station and along the Bush Stream but changed our minds after realising that Bush STREAM was in fact Bush Raging RIVER. We then walked back down to Mesopotamia station and up the Forest Creek instead - half a day wasted but at least safe. We are beginning to think we should have brought wet suit and life jacket instead on this walk the state of these rivers. We stayed the night at Felt Hut, another old musterers hut, with permission from Malcolm and Sue at Mesopotamia station which was nice as we had a long day the following day with a climb over the Bullock Bow saddle at 1640m then down and up again over the Stag Saddle, 1925m. We had lovely fine weather for the saddle which was awesome. Followed down the Camp stream from there down to our final hut before heading out to Lake Tekapo

Animals seen: Thar, rabbits galore, deer, himalyan mountain geese (obviously lost)

Thanks: a huge thanks to all those that gave us a ride around the Rakaia and Rangitata rivers and to DOC staff for all there invaluable information and help and to Mesopotamia station for all

their help in the area..

VIDEO - Please press play for viewing

Boyle Village (Lewis Pass) - Arthurs Pass (106km)

Boyle -Kiwi Saddle-Lake Sumner-Harper Pass-Taramakau River-Deception River - Arthurs Pass

Had to have an extra day off in Hanmer as the weather was horrendous; we got a ride out to the start of the track at Nelson Lakes and sat in the shelter but the rain was tipping down and didnt stop from then on. Decided was a bad idea to come out today after all and managed to get a ride back to Hanmer. Should have listened to the MetService forecast of severe weather warnings a bit better but its ok we started again the next day and only two rain showers - we hardly got wet, it was great!

Along the river flats to the Kiwi Saddle and through the bush to Lake Sumner. The track was under water around the lake and we saw a 4x4 stuck up on the high banks around the lake (a DOC worker told us later that they had driven in, then the river had come up so now they were stuck).

Along the track some more, a mix of bush and river flats staying at various huts en route then up over Harper Pass. Pretty good going up there as we happened to be following the DOC track cutters up there which was great, they had cleared nearly all the tree fell for us. Got to Locke Stream hut mid afternoon and got the weather report from the DOC radio there thats connected to Arthurs Pass visitor centre and they said the weather was looking good for the next few days but could be a few showers so we decided to push on a bit to the Kiwi hut for the night to get some ground underfoot whilst the sun had decided to make an appearance.

We had to look for quite a while for a safe crossing of the Taramakau river and again the Otahake as there had been so much rain everything was flowing pretty high, fast and strong but we got across safe and well and carried on the high water route from the Aitkens shelter to the Morrison footbridge. Now, theres a high water route and a VERY high water route; we did it for an hour then managed to drop back down onto the river flats before we completely ran out of steam. Managed to get ourselves around the river to the footbridge instead, much easier option!!

From here it was just over Goats Pass then into Arthurs Pass on a short road walk; however, we tried to cross the Deception river at two different places both aborted attempts due to high levels and the flow being too strong. We decided that we would camp for the night and try again in the morning as the rivers were dropping a good 15cm each day. The next morning, off we went again up the valley to a 'fairly good crossing point' and yes we managed to get across although it was still pretty strong. We wandered up the valley from there for another half hour or so then had to cross back to the other side. That was a no go unless we wanted to become the next tramper drowning statistic so we aborted our attempt again, headed back over at the point where we had first crossed and decided that the road walk was the safest option. There has been exceptionally high rain in the last two weeks making everything very difficult to manage and rivers a nightmare! We had to get a ride for the last few kms into Arthurs Pass as the Otira Tunnel and viaduct could have resulted in a road incident instead of a river one. If its not one thing its another. Oh well we are now here in Arthurs Pass and planning the next haul down to Lake Tekapo and have now done 2000km - we're getting there!!!

Apparently there has been 1.5 metres of rain in Arthurs Pass in two weeks - no wonder the rivers were high!!

St Arnaud - Boyle Village (Lewis Pass) - Section 10 (112km)

St Arnaud - Lake Rotoiti - Travers Sabine- Blue Lake - Waiau Pass- St James Walkway - Boyle Village

After having New Years Eve in St Arnaud (kicking place!); we were probably the only two people to surface from beneath the covers before midday on New Years Day but it was lovely weather so off we went.  A 3 hour walk around the Lake Head then up to the John Tait Hut.  Johno decided that some off roading on the river flats was required rather than walking on the perfectly good track that was available; after some success and then subsequent bush bashing this quickly became a bad idea and we had to find the track again to meet the swingbridge to cross the Travers River (see they do build tracks for a reason!).

2nd Jan (Happy 3 months tramping to us!).  Woke up to pretty heavy rain and lowish cloud but we went off to the next hut (great thing there being so many huts on this circuit) and thought we'd see from there how the weather was fairing before making a decision as to going over the Travers Saddle.  We went over (still raining but visibility ok'ish); it was like being in Fiordland, waterfalls everywhere, rivers cranking, path flooded.  We got to Sabine Hut with no trouble though and were moving pretty quickly (never stayed in a hut so full), a party of 7 and another of 4 people had decided that the rain was too much and not moved all day so the hut was in full motion (luckily only a few snorers and not too bad, way too wet to camp when there was an alternative option though).  

Off to Blue Lake Hut, the side streams were all really high and flowing fast into the main rivers, we had to be really careful and suprise it was raining again.  A guy who arrived at the hut later that day had said he had crossed a side stream that we had previously crossed at knee height, way up to his waist (not a good idea)!.  

Blue sky this morning for our start up to Lake Constance then over Waiau Pass.Paul, Jim and Nick who had also been staying at Blue Lake Hut joined us for this section.  We had to scramble way up high around the lake as there had been so much rain the track was half under water actually in the lake.  By the time we got to the bottom of Waiau Pass to head over the bad weather was on its way in again, a steep climb up high to the pass, visibility not too bad but it had now started to snow.  There were sections of snow still on the pass that we had to manoeuvre and scramble around as was too slippery and didnt fancy sliding back down 1900m.  Johno had to help me in various places as was a bit scared climbing down when I couldn't quite reach my feet to a rock.  

We all got down safely the other side and pushed our way through the overgrown bush (DOC cutting the track again this year apparantly, probably waiting for a sunny day - could be waiting a while?).  Met Maureen (Johno's boss) just over the other side of the Waiau Pass which was funny - they had been stuck in the Caroline Bivvy for 3 days waiting for the river to go down!.  We got about 3 hours down and got stuck by the river too, it had come up to high and was impassable again so we had to put up camp, amazing what a small uneven, rocky space you can fit 3 tents in when you need to.  

The river levels dropped heaps overnight though so we all crossed the river and plodded on down the valley to Caroline Biv ourselves, where we had lunch in sun (yes that was SUN!) then camped further down the valley for the night.  Paul and Jim (still with us) did some fishing but didnt catch anything which was a shame.  Down the valley still further before hitting another big river, a text book river crossing for MSC (Mountain Safety Council) if we do say so ourselves then onto the St James Walkway.  An easy walk over Anne Saddle (1136m) to Boyle Flats Hut with no rain but just as we were leaving the hut to continue on to Boyle Village and out it started again.  

We were within 2 km of getting out and had crossed a little sidestream that was quite fierce but as was only just a little wider than a step we got across but then got hit by the next one, a raging torent.  Now we were stuck between two impassable side streams.  We were a bit cold by then and it was starting to get late so we decided to put up the tent for the night and wait for it to go down (if it stopped raining) rather than just wait a few hours for it to go down.  The following morning it was ankle deep again but still raining and really cold; we realised why when we got out to the road and realised it had been snowing, all the mountains were lightly dusted.  An interesting section for us; we are now in Hanmer Springs getting more food and having a day off in the hot pools - NICE!.  Our friends Josh and Jodi came up to see us with little Jarrah, we had a slumber party with all of us in one room, was very funny! - great to see you guys.

Animals seen - 1 thar (Lake Constance), 2 red deer (river flats near Anne Hut)

Weather - 2 days of sun, 6 days of rain

Number of time stuck for high rivers - 2

Having fun - ?...  (Yes)

Number of foot problems - 1 (Johno again)

Number of stomach bugs - 1 (Cos)