Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Picton - St Arnaud - Section 9 (240km)

Queen Charlotte Track - Anakiwa-Havelock-SH6-Pelorus Bridge-Maungatapu Rd-Track up Pelorus River-Starveall Hut-Old Man Range-Goulter River track to Wairau River, Foot track along SH then SH to St Arnaud

Start of the South Island and a fairly gentle Cook Strait crossing although you wouldn't have believed it from the state of Johno's green face! Ha ha.  Got a boat out to Ship Cove after staying the night in Picton to the start of the Queen Charlotte Track and the first point at which Captain Cook first landed in NZ.  Track has stunning views, beautiful bays and is a well graded wide track; they have just recently opened it up to Mountain Biking so thinking that it would be a good option for a fun adventure later on (always planning the next one!).  Some nice people on the track which made for a nice sociable change to each other! Heaps of Wekas and a horrible possum at 2am with its head firmly planted in our food bag just outside the tent (it didnt even move when Johno put his head out and shouted at it).  

At the end of the Queen Charlotte we were out at Anakiwa to follow a bit of a link footpath on and off to the start of the scenic reserve, a track which runs under the power lines some 400m straight up with some awesome views of Havelock at the top.  We resupplied our food there with our biggest shop yet and 8 night, 9 day stretch.  As our bags were so heavy it was slow progress out to Pelorus Bridge where we camped overnight before heading down Maungatapu Road, a 13km backcountry road stretch to the start of the Richmond Ranges, a 35km section linking to an Alpine section to come out at St Arnaud.  We had a couple of swims in the Emerald Pools of the Pelorus River (summer has finally come!) in between climbing steeply and carefully amongst the tree roots and river to overnight in huts en route.  Chrismas Day saw us walking 'suprise' up to Starveal Hut some 1200m up (great views out to the sea at Nelson and all the surrounding mountains) through bush, along rivers (awesome as was so hot) and through a forest that looked like a tornado had passed through it, trees everywhere; we were very grateful that DOC had cleared the track and rerouted some of it (yes it was that bad) prior to us arriving.

Starting our Alpine section the next day, the wind was a bit gusty in places which made our scrambling sections a bit of a challenge but by the time we were walking on the ridge tops it had died down a bit; however, the cloud that had been hanging around Mt Rintoul all morning had now moved in and we were in and out of cloud for the afternoon.  We could still see the markers and the edge thankfully as there were some steep drop offs but we got through to the Old Man ridge and dropped down to the hut there for the night.

Today we waited until mid morning, the weather (cloud and rain) had completely closed in around us overnight at the Old Man Hut some 800m lower than the Mt Rintoul we need to be up at (1700m above sea level).  We decided to head down to the Goulter huts with the plan that we might do a detour back up the other side of Mt Rintoul on a different track the next day thus avoiding the high point but after a further night down the valley and visibility just as bad the next day (if not worse) we decided to head on out of the Richmond Ranges.  The weather was just not behaving, we needed a good clear day to get over Mt Rintoul and the subsequent Red Hills peaks for the full Alpine circuit.  Not having enough food left to wait out more days for a 'good day' that might not come any time soon we navigated our way out to keep on moving South (we'll not get there till December next year otherwise!).  Ended up on a 4WD track alongside the Wairau River then out to the SH where we picked up a foot track under the pylons running adjacent to the road; the weather had turned out to be a beautiful hot day.  We overnighted and walked the last 15km along the highway (in rain again) to St Arnaud where we are now having a day off. - What will the weather do next, we need a nice clear spell for our next section too???

Animals seen: black pig, 2 goats on the ridges, about 10 goats at the Old Man Hut, tails of deer and more goats in the bush

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Wanganui to Wellington - Section 8 (225km)

Wanganui - Turakina Beach - Bulls - Foxton - Levin - Mt Thompson - Tararuas to Otaki Gorge Road - Otaki Forks -Field Hut - Otaki Forks - Otaki-Raumati Beach - coast walk to Porirua-Colonial Knob-Mt Kaukau- Wellington

From Wanganui we started out with a real boring road walk along SH41 to Turakina, then a further 9km out to the beach. Johno's parents came out to Turakina beach for dinner and met us at the campsite which was great, even better was that they took our backpacks for us so we only had to carry a daypack for 20km! - fantastic!! The next day was a whole day of beachwalking with pretty good weather; it took us back reminiscing to the very start of our walk on 90 Mile Beach.

We got off the beach the Wanganui side of Tangimoana and walked a few km into the small town of Moana Roa to get more water and find out our options for crossing the Rangitikei River (stopping us from walking all the way along the beach). We asked around the 'ghost town' with those that had boats and at the little campsite but no-one could help. One really helpful guy said "can't you just swim"; we hope he wasnt being serious as there was no way in hell we were gonna cross that river. We parked up at the campsite for the night to reconsider our options. After sleeping we decided to road walk to Bulls 20km away (no other option without a boat and virtually no traffic on the road) then get a hitch to the equivalent place further along the beach at Foxton. After reaching Foxton we thought about walking out to the beach and trying to get across our next problem, the Manawatu river and continuing our walk along the beach but after chatting to the locals we figured there wouldn't be much chance of a ride across at this time of day, mid week so rather than waste another day messing around we opted to road walk (nightmare) through to Levin to resupply our food then go onto the DOC campsite at Manakau North Road. What an ugly few days that was, an initial 'lovely beach walk' turned into a long walk along the road due to no boats to cross the river, thankfully we have a few days in the bush ahead of us now.

So the start of the Tararua Ranges was at Mt Thompson, straight up for 700m, the weather was a bit ugly with rain and cloud until the afternoon when it stopped for a bit. The tracks were like rivers in some places and a complete maze to get through resulting in constant GPS use and a bit of backtracking but we got through and out to Otaki Gorge Road eventually.


Danger in Forest: Dodgy dogs growling at you in the forest and owners who can't control them

Action: Get tramping poles in hand, point dog and back away

Result: Dog keeps eye sockets, we keep limbs, owner a bit pissed that we had threatened dogs with sharp spikes on end of poles - Should keep dogs under control!


Walked along the gorge road with diggers clearing slips from the rain off the road then to the start of the track up to Field Hut and the Southern Crossing over the Tararuas, just 3 hours away. Te Araroa's route goes along the beach from Otaki but we wanted to experience some of the Tararuas. However that night in the hut it rained so heavily all night long that it was impossible to even attempt going anywhere until about 10am the next day when we started off to Kime Hut just another 3 hours up before seeing if we could then carry on to Alpha Hut another 4-5hrs after that. Well we got 45 minutes up the mountain, probably about 1000m and only 300m since Field Hut and the wind was attrocious. We could hardly stand up and the mist was very bad making visibility difficult already and with another 500m to climb to the top and me already crouched behind some tussock we decided to return to Field Hut. We thought we might try and give it another go in the afternoon but the wind appeared to be stronger plus some other trampers had come up and told us the forecast 'gale force winds up to 100km/ph and mist not to be clearing anytime soon.

So we stayed put in Field Hut for the night and thought we'd check it out the following day maybe but at 5.30am the following morning it hadn't changed and rather than waste another days food we decided to walk back to the car park and out to Otaki to find another route. Malcolm gave us a ride to Otaki (a guy at the hut also turned back by bad weather but on an alternative route) where we bought another topo map of our new route along the coast (The Te Araroa route) so off we headed again following the coast for the day, picking up the sea wall and various parks all the way into Porirua. We stayed at the camp there, right at the start of the track for the final day of the North Island into Wellington, up Colonial Knob (farmland) down through Spicer Forest, up to Mt KauKau and the massive television ariel then down to Wellingtons Botanical Gardens.


North Island Complete
Celebretary Dinner
3 days off in Wellington
Ferry to Picton then start walking the day after.


Thanks for reading everyone, and keeping up with the armchair reading. Hope its not too boring! Happy Christmas to all

Kiaora

We hope you enjoy the 'Tiki Tour' with us

"One life.... LIVE IT!"

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Christchurch, New Zealand
Tramping 3000km You're doing WHAT? WHY? We might ask ourselves the same question on numerous days throughout the next 5 months but we have set ourselves this challenge and may just have to grin and bear it at times but most of all ENJOY it! We can't wait. See you soon......

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