Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Arthurs Pass - Lake Tekapo (221km)

Cora Lyn - Lagoon Saddle - Harper River-Lake Coleridge-Turtons Saddle-Clent Hill Saddle-Hakatere Conservation Reserve-Mesopotamia Station -Bullock Bow Saddle-Stag Saddle-Lake Tekapo

First off thanks to Sheena for picking me up from Darfield to go back to Arthurs Pass with all our food and for taking our packs so we could walk the 3 hour connecting road section without them; it made all the difference and it was great to see ya. From Cora Lyn we had a nice walk up to the Lagoon Saddle then along the Harper River to Hamilton Hut and only a bit of drizzle - maybe the summer is coming?? The next day was walking along the Harper River again then down the back country road to Lake Coleridge village. We met the owner of Glenthorne/Ryton station (John) who asked about the trail hopefully he will eventually grant access through the stations as walking 32km along the road is a bit monotenous after a while. Getting across the Rakaia river had been one of our concerns (alongside the Rangitata) for a while, what with so much rain but it proved no problem (we just went round). Got a ride right around to the start of the road the other side of the river by a nice man and his daughter who'd been out biking and kayaking on the lake then got another ride by Mt Hutt Helicopters (the truck not the helicopter, unfortunately). It was waiting at the bottom of the road for the all go from DOC that the 2 toilets for the very huts we were planning to stay in were ready for airlifting in place - awesome; he took us right to the start of the track the other side of the river. Must have been good karma, we found an expensive leatherman on the road the day before and guessed it had been the musterers from Lake Colerige Station who we had passed; we gave it to another station worker to give back, he knew who it belonged to.


Stayed at A Frame hut near the Clent Hills saddle for the night with the new toilet (in place but unfortunately not installed); saw the DOC guys on the way down from the hut, they had installed the other toilet at Comyns Hut and were on there way to the A Frame and shooting a few rabbits en route to us. The huts along this section are old musterers huts and have a lot of history (and mice it seems, the little buggers). This is all new conservation area recently back in DOC hands after tenure review and is great - not sure how they ever grazed it, think the sheep must have eaten scree. We came out of this track at Lake Heron carpark and walked onto more recently new conservation land at Hakatere. We had planned on camping at Lake Clearwater then heading up to Mt Potts station to find out about crossing the Rangitata river; we had heard that possibly you could cross (48 braided channels) up further towards Mt Eriwhon but got chatting to a DOC guy whilst looking at the historic Hakatere station buildings and he said that the river flow was at 200 cumecs and they were only allowed to cross in their 4x4s at 100 cumecs (it wasnt even worth a go). Last week the river was flowing at 800 cumecs, thats how much rain there has been!!!

Alan (DOC guy) gave us a ride around to the bottom of the road the other side of the river on his way home (awesome, thanks) then we only waited 15 minutes of so and got a ride up the road to a campsite at Peel Forest (just 14 km up the other side). We stayed there for the night in a little cabin and waited for the thunder and lightening to pass over, thankfully it did the next day and got a ride with Ian at the Peel Forest shop who also runs the campsite and the rural post service all the way up to Mesopotamia station (some 50km at the end of the Rakaia Gorge Road) and the start of the Te Araroa trail the other side of the Rangitata river. We stayed at the station for the night and congratulated ourselves on getting across the 2 biggest Canterbury rivers without getting wet feet! It anyone is interested Malcolm from Mesopotamia station will take you across the river in his helicopter for a rather hefty fee but you too could have dry feet!

The following day however was a different story, we were supposed to head up from Mesopotamia Station and along the Bush Stream but changed our minds after realising that Bush STREAM was in fact Bush Raging RIVER. We then walked back down to Mesopotamia station and up the Forest Creek instead - half a day wasted but at least safe. We are beginning to think we should have brought wet suit and life jacket instead on this walk the state of these rivers. We stayed the night at Felt Hut, another old musterers hut, with permission from Malcolm and Sue at Mesopotamia station which was nice as we had a long day the following day with a climb over the Bullock Bow saddle at 1640m then down and up again over the Stag Saddle, 1925m. We had lovely fine weather for the saddle which was awesome. Followed down the Camp stream from there down to our final hut before heading out to Lake Tekapo


Animals seen: Thar, rabbits galore, deer, himalyan mountain geese (obviously lost)

Thanks: a huge thanks to all those that gave us a ride around the Rakaia and Rangitata rivers and to DOC staff for all there invaluable information and help and to Mesopotamia station for all
their help in the area..

VIDEO - Please press play for viewing

Friday, January 15, 2010

Boyle Village (Lewis Pass) - Arthurs Pass (106km)

Boyle -Kiwi Saddle-Lake Sumner-Harper Pass-Taramakau River-Deception River - Arthurs Pass

Had to have an extra day off in Hanmer as the weather was horrendous; we got a ride out to the start of the track at Nelson Lakes and sat in the shelter but the rain was tipping down and didnt stop from then on. Decided was a bad idea to come out today after all and managed to get a ride back to Hanmer. Should have listened to the MetService forecast of severe weather warnings a bit better but its ok we started again the next day and only two rain showers - we hardly got wet, it was great!

Along the river flats to the Kiwi Saddle and through the bush to Lake Sumner. The track was under water around the lake and we saw a 4x4 stuck up on the high banks around the lake (a DOC worker told us later that they had driven in, then the river had come up so now they were stuck).

Along the track some more, a mix of bush and river flats staying at various huts en route then up over Harper Pass. Pretty good going up there as we happened to be following the DOC track cutters up there which was great, they had cleared nearly all the tree fell for us. Got to Locke Stream hut mid afternoon and got the weather report from the DOC radio there thats connected to Arthurs Pass visitor centre and they said the weather was looking good for the next few days but could be a few showers so we decided to push on a bit to the Kiwi hut for the night to get some ground underfoot whilst the sun had decided to make an appearance.

We had to look for quite a while for a safe crossing of the Taramakau river and again the Otahake as there had been so much rain everything was flowing pretty high, fast and strong but we got across safe and well and carried on the high water route from the Aitkens shelter to the Morrison footbridge. Now, theres a high water route and a VERY high water route; we did it for an hour then managed to drop back down onto the river flats before we completely ran out of steam. Managed to get ourselves around the river to the footbridge instead, much easier option!!

From here it was just over Goats Pass then into Arthurs Pass on a short road walk; however, we tried to cross the Deception river at two different places both aborted attempts due to high levels and the flow being too strong. We decided that we would camp for the night and try again in the morning as the rivers were dropping a good 15cm each day. The next morning, off we went again up the valley to a 'fairly good crossing point' and yes we managed to get across although it was still pretty strong. We wandered up the valley from there for another half hour or so then had to cross back to the other side. That was a no go unless we wanted to become the next tramper drowning statistic so we aborted our attempt again, headed back over at the point where we had first crossed and decided that the road walk was the safest option. There has been exceptionally high rain in the last two weeks making everything very difficult to manage and rivers a nightmare! We had to get a ride for the last few kms into Arthurs Pass as the Otira Tunnel and viaduct could have resulted in a road incident instead of a river one. If its not one thing its another. Oh well we are now here in Arthurs Pass and planning the next haul down to Lake Tekapo and have now done 2000km - we're getting there!!!

Apparently there has been 1.5 metres of rain in Arthurs Pass in two weeks - no wonder the rivers were high!!

Saturday, January 9, 2010

St Arnaud - Boyle Village (Lewis Pass) - Section 10 (112km)

St Arnaud - Lake Rotoiti - Travers Sabine- Blue Lake - Waiau Pass- St James Walkway - Boyle Village

After having New Years Eve in St Arnaud (kicking place!); we were probably the only two people to surface from beneath the covers before midday on New Years Day but it was lovely weather so off we went.  A 3 hour walk around the Lake Head then up to the John Tait Hut.  Johno decided that some off roading on the river flats was required rather than walking on the perfectly good track that was available; after some success and then subsequent bush bashing this quickly became a bad idea and we had to find the track again to meet the swingbridge to cross the Travers River (see they do build tracks for a reason!).


2nd Jan (Happy 3 months tramping to us!).  Woke up to pretty heavy rain and lowish cloud but we went off to the next hut (great thing there being so many huts on this circuit) and thought we'd see from there how the weather was fairing before making a decision as to going over the Travers Saddle.  We went over (still raining but visibility ok'ish); it was like being in Fiordland, waterfalls everywhere, rivers cranking, path flooded.  We got to Sabine Hut with no trouble though and were moving pretty quickly (never stayed in a hut so full), a party of 7 and another of 4 people had decided that the rain was too much and not moved all day so the hut was in full motion (luckily only a few snorers and not too bad, way too wet to camp when there was an alternative option though).  

Off to Blue Lake Hut, the side streams were all really high and flowing fast into the main rivers, we had to be really careful and suprise it was raining again.  A guy who arrived at the hut later that day had said he had crossed a side stream that we had previously crossed at knee height, way up to his waist (not a good idea)!.  

Blue sky this morning for our start up to Lake Constance then over Waiau Pass.Paul, Jim and Nick who had also been staying at Blue Lake Hut joined us for this section.  We had to scramble way up high around the lake as there had been so much rain the track was half under water actually in the lake.  By the time we got to the bottom of Waiau Pass to head over the bad weather was on its way in again, a steep climb up high to the pass, visibility not too bad but it had now started to snow.  There were sections of snow still on the pass that we had to manoeuvre and scramble around as was too slippery and didnt fancy sliding back down 1900m.  Johno had to help me in various places as was a bit scared climbing down when I couldn't quite reach my feet to a rock.  

We all got down safely the other side and pushed our way through the overgrown bush (DOC cutting the track again this year apparantly, probably waiting for a sunny day - could be waiting a while?).  Met Maureen (Johno's boss) just over the other side of the Waiau Pass which was funny - they had been stuck in the Caroline Bivvy for 3 days waiting for the river to go down!.  We got about 3 hours down and got stuck by the river too, it had come up to high and was impassable again so we had to put up camp, amazing what a small uneven, rocky space you can fit 3 tents in when you need to.  

The river levels dropped heaps overnight though so we all crossed the river and plodded on down the valley to Caroline Biv ourselves, where we had lunch in sun (yes that was SUN!) then camped further down the valley for the night.  Paul and Jim (still with us) did some fishing but didnt catch anything which was a shame.  Down the valley still further before hitting another big river, a text book river crossing for MSC (Mountain Safety Council) if we do say so ourselves then onto the St James Walkway.  An easy walk over Anne Saddle (1136m) to Boyle Flats Hut with no rain but just as we were leaving the hut to continue on to Boyle Village and out it started again.  

We were within 2 km of getting out and had crossed a little sidestream that was quite fierce but as was only just a little wider than a step we got across but then got hit by the next one, a raging torent.  Now we were stuck between two impassable side streams.  We were a bit cold by then and it was starting to get late so we decided to put up the tent for the night and wait for it to go down (if it stopped raining) rather than just wait a few hours for it to go down.  The following morning it was ankle deep again but still raining and really cold; we realised why when we got out to the road and realised it had been snowing, all the mountains were lightly dusted.  An interesting section for us; we are now in Hanmer Springs getting more food and having a day off in the hot pools - NICE!.  Our friends Josh and Jodi came up to see us with little Jarrah, we had a slumber party with all of us in one room, was very funny! - great to see you guys.



Animals seen - 1 thar (Lake Constance), 2 red deer (river flats near Anne Hut)

Weather - 2 days of sun, 6 days of rain

Number of time stuck for high rivers - 2

Having fun - ?...  (Yes)

Number of foot problems - 1 (Johno again)

Number of stomach bugs - 1 (Cos)

Kiaora

We hope you enjoy the 'Tiki Tour' with us

"One life.... LIVE IT!"

About Us

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Christchurch, New Zealand
Tramping 3000km You're doing WHAT? WHY? We might ask ourselves the same question on numerous days throughout the next 5 months but we have set ourselves this challenge and may just have to grin and bear it at times but most of all ENJOY it! We can't wait. See you soon......

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