Te Kuiti to Wanganui - Section 7 (305km)

Te Kuiti- Mangokewa stream and road - Mt Pureora- Bogg Inn Hut-Waihaha Hut- SH41-Kuratau Junction-Tokaanu-Turangi - Tongariro Crossing- Whakapapa-Mangaturuturu Hut - Ruapehu-Ohakune

A funny start at Te Kuiti with the man at the Limeworks company telling us that we weren't allowed along the road through and proceeded to guide us onto a track the wrong side of the river we actually wanted to be on. We decided that perhaps we were on the right track originally and perhaps he didnt agree with access being granted but we got to the Mangokewa Reserve eventually and picked up the Mangokewa River Track, saw lots of goats and Johno most disappointed that he didnt have a gun to improve our dinner for the night. From the river we started our walk to the Herekino Forest which took the whole day I might add but on arrival discovered that the forest had been harvested along with all the track marker signs; there were roads leading everywhere so after having put the tent up in the only bit of native bush in the whole forest for the night the next day decided that it would in fact be quicker to walk back out and down the road rather than try and navigate our way through a demolished forest for the day. Had an interesting time negotiating the bull on the cow race on the way out who instead of going in the opposite direction to us like his bull mates and decided to walk ahead of us until he saw the road gate at the end and realised he was now cornered at which point the bull turned to face us with a very angry look and we jumped over (well Johno jumped over and I had to be yanked over) an electric fence. We had a pleasant two days walk through the Pureora Forest with awesome tracks and a night in both Bog Inn Hun and Waihaha Hut followed by a boring 2 days walk along SH41 to Kuratau Junction where we stayed the night at the back of the Community Hall (permission given of course). Our route from there changed slightly in the fact that we had been permitted to walk from Kuratau through Moerangi Station but the forest surrounding the whole station advised us that we had to submit our intentions to them in writing by email and they would come back to us after their next board meeting. This of course we did not have time for so we decided to walk to Turangi instead (direction West, 20km the wrong way) then get a hitch back to the equivalent distance after our night there but direction South this time. This also enabled us to courier some more shoes from Taupo for Johno who has trashed his already.

So now on the right direction we walked along the road from our drop off point to the start of the Tongariro Crossing at the Ketatahi track. Crikey we had gone from seeing no overnight trampers on any track since Cape Reinga, to 12 hunters the other day to about 250 people and all walking towards us. We were now on the great 'One Day Tongariro Alpine Crossing' We stayed the night at Ketatahi Hut with absolutely stunning views of Lake Taupo and the sacred Ketatahi Hot Springs; we were going to camp but didnt think the tent would like the 70km wind forecast at over 1000m. We awoke to a gorgeous day and managed a good hour walk before seeing anyone else; the Emerald and Blue Lakes were beautiful, sky bright blue and winds attrocious at 70km per hour. We could just about stand up on the top and going into a headwind had to really dig our poles into the ground and keep going to sustain the momentum of moving. It was a bit scary, kept looking down and seeing how close I was to the crater rim. What was more scary though was what some people were wearing, it looked like they were going to a nightclub rather than to climb a mountain of 1900m. We were glad it didnt rain as half of them didnt have any thermals, hat, gloves or rain gear with them.

Stayed in Whakapapa Village for the night before heading out to Mangaturuturu Hut (had to camp as hut was full, its not even holidays yet, whats going on?) and over many valleys and quite a few rivers with awesome views of Mt Ruapehu. Think its the first time we have got our shoes totally wet from the river as opposed to the rain for a long time (not like the South Island). Lovely walk out to the Ohakune Mountain Road where we decided to get Johno's swollen foot checked out at the doctors. Some kind of insect bite revealed an infection, 2 days with leg up to reduce swelling and a course of antibiotics. So I went mountain biking whilst in Ohakune up the Old Coach Road, along the old viaduct (where AJ Hackett did the first bungy) and the railway tunnels - was great. Thanks to Bodhi at LKNZ (former Matai Lodge) for an awesome stay and being my mountain bike guide.


So after our two days off we planned an easy 38km walk to Pipiriki just in case Johno's foot was bad again; it rained from about an hour after we started and was pissing down all day; we had enough about 3pm and decided to find somewhere to put the tent up for the night and as we were walking along the road we came across an old woolshed just off the road in the forest. We took a little look and made a very quick decision that it would be an awesome place to crash for the night so layed our tent on the floor to cover up all the animal shit, gave it a bit of a clean with some old bits of wood and had an awesome shelter with no shortage of rainwater for drinking. You cant even imagine how good it was to be out of the rain. The next day of course was still raining but on we plodded to Pipiriki where we found a shelter for the kayakers there by the Wanganui River. We had to wait there until the next day for the canoes and Dad and Uncle Steve to arrive for our next section - paddling down the Wanganui River and NO its not cheating!!! We have the choice of walking or biking this 80km part of the Te Araroa trail. The following day Dad and Uncle Steve came up with the mail run from Wanganui to Pipiriki, the canoes arrived and we started to pack our waterproof barrels to load into our 17ft Canadian canoes. After some instruction by Yeti Tours we hopped in what was now a pretty swollen Wanganui River from all the rain and off we paddled. We just made it to our first camping ground for the night, The Flying Fox, Ecolodge and put up our tents before the heavens opened yet again. The lovely Annette and John of the Flying Fox let us use one of the beautiful Ecohouses there to cook our dinner and have a lovely hot shower (much appreciated guys, thanks).


The next day the river had risen even higher but the weather was clearing (apparently) so off we went. We had morning tea at Downes Hut then got to our second planned campspot, Hipango Park in just half the day after a pretty difficult sideways manouvre into the jetty which was mostly covered by water and difficult to negotiate with the speed of the river. It looked like it was touch and go for a minute as to whether Mike and Steve were going to end up in the river but they made it round and we were all still dry so that was good.

As we had got there so early we decided to carry on a bit longer and camp further up the river somewhere. The river however was taking us so swifly, and along with the tailwind and outgoing tide we realised we were very close to Wanganui and decided to come in a day earlier than planned (again just in time before the rain started again)! - lucky or what. We then had to take the canoes one by one back to the house on the back of Mikes truck (quite a challenge to put a 17ft canoe on the top of a small Isuzu) to be collected the following day by Yeti. A good trip had by all and we are definitely planning a trip on the upper half of the river soon and dragging a few more Tunnells down with us next time.


We are desperately hoping the summer is coming soon as we think it has rained every day since leaving Hamilton.

Hamilton to Te Kuiti - Section 6 (121km)

Hamilton - Kapamahunga ranges - Pirongia Mountain - back country road walking - SH23 - Kaimango Road - Farm tracks and forest - Mahoe Road - Waitomo Caves - Farmland - Te Kuiti

Day walking out of Hamilton to the Kapamahunga ranges, very funny (for Johno anyway) when my foot got jammed in cow mud and nearly fell over getting it out, was very worried my shoe would be stuck in there and my foot would come out of it. Awesome views out of Pirongia and stayed at our first DOC hut (Pahautea Hut) 954m since starting this walk. We had only walked for about 5 hours but couldnt pass up the opportunity and had been wet the day before so dried everything out in the sun and just chilled - awesome!!

Boggy as ground coming down from the mountain and nearly had another couple of shoe suction actions again. Walked some back country roads with only about 1 car per 2 hours on them, makes you wander why they are there. We were supposed to walk through Mahoe Forest down to Waitomo Caves but couldnt find the start of the track so ended up walking down the road (gravel back country one) for about 20km before picking up a bit of the Waitomo walkway and heading into the village for the night. Farm walked all the way to Te Kuiti where we are staying with Dan and Amanda and the kids for a few nights. Fantastic!!

Auckland - Hamilton - Section 5 (170km)

Coast to Coast walkway out of Auckland - Massey/Crosseys track - Mercer - Meremere - Waikato River Walk - Rangiri - Huntly - Hakarimata walkway - Ngaruawahia - Waikato River Walkway - Hamilton

Much road walking for this section, it took us a day and half to get out of Auckland, picked up a couple of walkways and forest tracks and lots more road walking until we got to Mercer where we had to pick up SH7 until getting to Meremere - where we picked up the Rangiriri walkway along the Waikato River and followed the stopbanks and various dairy farms all the way. At Rangiri we stayed at the hotel there and then off we go along the stopbanks alongside the river again until Huntly through to the Hakarimatas then Ngarawhaia and back onto the Waikato and finally Hamilton where Ang and Cesar have kindly put us up for a few nights - awesome guys thanks!!

Waipu to Auckland - Section 4 (183km)

Waipu - Brynderwyn walkway - Mangawhai- Pakiri- Tamahunga Ranges - Dome Forest - Waiwhui-Puhoi- Orewa-Devonport-Auckland


Out of Waipu then through DOC's Brynderwyn walkway where we met Anette and Tom at the Trig Point, a couple from Auckland away for the weekend at their bach in Mangawhai Heads (first people we have met tramping since Ninety Mile Beach). We walked back to the car park with them and then on our own again picked up a farm track to the Mangawhai Cliffs walkway. Stayed with Annette and Tom for the night as they had so kindly invited us and had an awesome roast chook for tea. thanks guys!. The following day we beach walked all the way to Pakiri and stayed at the campground there - only 2 others besides us, all the Aucklanders gone home after the long weekend. Had been a very wet afternoon but cleared up enough to put the tent up quickly. The following day was another wet arse day into Matakana from the Tamahunga track. Matakana is quite a posh town with designer shops and a very expensive supermarket and we looked right out of place in our designer mud splattered rain gear. Headed up the Dome Whaiwhui Forest where we camped the night and the following day met Jim and his wife at the Dome Forest Cafe who said that he had had a couple come through 3 weeks ago doing the Teararoa trail from the USA. We suggested he make a Teararoa hikers board at the cafe which he has done - awesome! Various trails into Moirs Hill Forest then into Puhoi where we had a 3 hour wait due to the tides and a lovely pub lunch before canoeing the Puhoi River down to Wenderholm Regional Park. Its not possible to walk this section as is SH (motorway) so the 8km paddle was a nice change. Decided to camp at the Park for the night before heading out the next day for a walk all the way round the coast to Whangaparoa where Gunter (an avid Teararoa supporter) took us across the Weiti River in his little boat so we could walk the Okura Track then round on the North Shore Coastal Walkway from Long Bay all the way to Devonport and as it was low tide we were able to walk on the beach and round the rocks pretty much all the way. Awesome coastal walk! - Took the ferry from Devonport and we are now resting up in Auckland for a few days.


Birds seen: New Zeland Terns (protected) and Kakariki parrots

Paihia to Waipu - Section 3 (215km)

Well this was a nice dry section for us, only a few days of showers and rain coat on and off 10 times per day! Nice coastal walk around the bays and out of Paihia then onto the vehicle ferry to cross to Okiato. A mixture of tar seal and logging tracks for the afternoon before heading into the Russel 'Ngaitongo Walkway'. Saw the most awful rubbish tip off the side of the road going straight down into the forest - even cars just dumped over the side - DISGUSTING!!

No streams at the start of the forest and heading into night time but Johno was awesome and managed to suck up a litre of water out of a rain puddle - just enough for a drink for the evening and a little for the following morning. Good job he did as had a 3 hour walk before we got to the stream in the end. Bit of a landslide gone on at the end of the track or rather what was the track, legs are ripped to bits from the gorse and clambering over fallen trees - Johno reckons it ruins his modelling career!! Because of the bush bashing the day before we decided to change the days route and we took the coastal road down to Mimiwhangata coastal reserve rather than through the forest and we are so glad we did - it was the most stunning scenery - we even walked a 32km day (the most so far)

Walked across Whananaki footbridge, the longest in New Zealand before picking up another coastal route heading into the Matapouri Forest where we had to wait (luckily for only 45mins) for forestry operations to finish for the day (didnt fancy a big pine tree on our heads!). Ngururu's campsite no longer exists (nice to find these things out at 6.30pm at night)! so we hitched to Tutukarara to camp for the night (about 4km away). Just so happened that the guy who picked us up was living at the campsite so that was handy. Got another ride back the following morning to that pick up point then various roads into the Mackerel Forest to Patua and our longest day yet at 35km!!! We hadnt planned to walk that long but there was nowhere to really camp for the night. We thought we could stock up on some yummy stuff at the campsite in Patua for the night but found out we were the only ones there and the shop was closed until December where apparently the population of 50 increases to 5000!!!!

Had another change to the Teararoa trail later on leaving Patua as high tide thus not able to walk over the estuary so a bit of road walking before hitting Marsden Point where we managed to hitch a ride on a boat after only a 20min wait with two girls who had been out diving for the day. Across to the oil refinery the other side (bit too deep to wade across) before continuing on the beach through Ruakaka and then Waipu for our day off where we exchanged a nights accommodation for tidying the owners garden for 2 hours - bargain!!