Te Kuiti to Wanganui - Section 7 (305km)

Te Kuiti- Mangokewa stream and road - Mt Pureora- Bogg Inn Hut-Waihaha Hut- SH41-Kuratau Junction-Tokaanu-Turangi - Tongariro Crossing- Whakapapa-Mangaturuturu Hut - Ruapehu-Ohakune

A funny start at Te Kuiti with the man at the Limeworks company telling us that we weren't allowed along the road through and proceeded to guide us onto a track the wrong side of the river we actually wanted to be on. We decided that perhaps we were on the right track originally and perhaps he didnt agree with access being granted but we got to the Mangokewa Reserve eventually and picked up the Mangokewa River Track, saw lots of goats and Johno most disappointed that he didnt have a gun to improve our dinner for the night. From the river we started our walk to the Herekino Forest which took the whole day I might add but on arrival discovered that the forest had been harvested along with all the track marker signs; there were roads leading everywhere so after having put the tent up in the only bit of native bush in the whole forest for the night the next day decided that it would in fact be quicker to walk back out and down the road rather than try and navigate our way through a demolished forest for the day. Had an interesting time negotiating the bull on the cow race on the way out who instead of going in the opposite direction to us like his bull mates and decided to walk ahead of us until he saw the road gate at the end and realised he was now cornered at which point the bull turned to face us with a very angry look and we jumped over (well Johno jumped over and I had to be yanked over) an electric fence. We had a pleasant two days walk through the Pureora Forest with awesome tracks and a night in both Bog Inn Hun and Waihaha Hut followed by a boring 2 days walk along SH41 to Kuratau Junction where we stayed the night at the back of the Community Hall (permission given of course). Our route from there changed slightly in the fact that we had been permitted to walk from Kuratau through Moerangi Station but the forest surrounding the whole station advised us that we had to submit our intentions to them in writing by email and they would come back to us after their next board meeting. This of course we did not have time for so we decided to walk to Turangi instead (direction West, 20km the wrong way) then get a hitch back to the equivalent distance after our night there but direction South this time. This also enabled us to courier some more shoes from Taupo for Johno who has trashed his already.

So now on the right direction we walked along the road from our drop off point to the start of the Tongariro Crossing at the Ketatahi track. Crikey we had gone from seeing no overnight trampers on any track since Cape Reinga, to 12 hunters the other day to about 250 people and all walking towards us. We were now on the great 'One Day Tongariro Alpine Crossing' We stayed the night at Ketatahi Hut with absolutely stunning views of Lake Taupo and the sacred Ketatahi Hot Springs; we were going to camp but didnt think the tent would like the 70km wind forecast at over 1000m. We awoke to a gorgeous day and managed a good hour walk before seeing anyone else; the Emerald and Blue Lakes were beautiful, sky bright blue and winds attrocious at 70km per hour. We could just about stand up on the top and going into a headwind had to really dig our poles into the ground and keep going to sustain the momentum of moving. It was a bit scary, kept looking down and seeing how close I was to the crater rim. What was more scary though was what some people were wearing, it looked like they were going to a nightclub rather than to climb a mountain of 1900m. We were glad it didnt rain as half of them didnt have any thermals, hat, gloves or rain gear with them.

Stayed in Whakapapa Village for the night before heading out to Mangaturuturu Hut (had to camp as hut was full, its not even holidays yet, whats going on?) and over many valleys and quite a few rivers with awesome views of Mt Ruapehu. Think its the first time we have got our shoes totally wet from the river as opposed to the rain for a long time (not like the South Island). Lovely walk out to the Ohakune Mountain Road where we decided to get Johno's swollen foot checked out at the doctors. Some kind of insect bite revealed an infection, 2 days with leg up to reduce swelling and a course of antibiotics. So I went mountain biking whilst in Ohakune up the Old Coach Road, along the old viaduct (where AJ Hackett did the first bungy) and the railway tunnels - was great. Thanks to Bodhi at LKNZ (former Matai Lodge) for an awesome stay and being my mountain bike guide.


So after our two days off we planned an easy 38km walk to Pipiriki just in case Johno's foot was bad again; it rained from about an hour after we started and was pissing down all day; we had enough about 3pm and decided to find somewhere to put the tent up for the night and as we were walking along the road we came across an old woolshed just off the road in the forest. We took a little look and made a very quick decision that it would be an awesome place to crash for the night so layed our tent on the floor to cover up all the animal shit, gave it a bit of a clean with some old bits of wood and had an awesome shelter with no shortage of rainwater for drinking. You cant even imagine how good it was to be out of the rain. The next day of course was still raining but on we plodded to Pipiriki where we found a shelter for the kayakers there by the Wanganui River. We had to wait there until the next day for the canoes and Dad and Uncle Steve to arrive for our next section - paddling down the Wanganui River and NO its not cheating!!! We have the choice of walking or biking this 80km part of the Te Araroa trail. The following day Dad and Uncle Steve came up with the mail run from Wanganui to Pipiriki, the canoes arrived and we started to pack our waterproof barrels to load into our 17ft Canadian canoes. After some instruction by Yeti Tours we hopped in what was now a pretty swollen Wanganui River from all the rain and off we paddled. We just made it to our first camping ground for the night, The Flying Fox, Ecolodge and put up our tents before the heavens opened yet again. The lovely Annette and John of the Flying Fox let us use one of the beautiful Ecohouses there to cook our dinner and have a lovely hot shower (much appreciated guys, thanks).


The next day the river had risen even higher but the weather was clearing (apparently) so off we went. We had morning tea at Downes Hut then got to our second planned campspot, Hipango Park in just half the day after a pretty difficult sideways manouvre into the jetty which was mostly covered by water and difficult to negotiate with the speed of the river. It looked like it was touch and go for a minute as to whether Mike and Steve were going to end up in the river but they made it round and we were all still dry so that was good.

As we had got there so early we decided to carry on a bit longer and camp further up the river somewhere. The river however was taking us so swifly, and along with the tailwind and outgoing tide we realised we were very close to Wanganui and decided to come in a day earlier than planned (again just in time before the rain started again)! - lucky or what. We then had to take the canoes one by one back to the house on the back of Mikes truck (quite a challenge to put a 17ft canoe on the top of a small Isuzu) to be collected the following day by Yeti. A good trip had by all and we are definitely planning a trip on the upper half of the river soon and dragging a few more Tunnells down with us next time.


We are desperately hoping the summer is coming soon as we think it has rained every day since leaving Hamilton.